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Río San Juan

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Historical region with a rain forest reserve bordering the beautiful river.

Population: approx. 96,000 people
Location: central/southeastern corner of Nicaragua, bordering Costa Rica, Lake Nicaragua, and the Caribbean Sea
Attractions: historical sites, rain forest, birds, river exploration, nature, sport fishing

Exuberant nature and important historical sites are both found in the Río San Juan department, making it a truly attractive yet relatively unexplored region.

Large areas that are situated along the shores of the San Juan River – a river that connects the immense Lake Nicaragua (or Cocibolca) with the Caribbean Sea – are in fact protected natural reserves where visitors can easily observe a multitude of beautiful wildlife and spectacular tropical flora.

In the past, this zone was not only sought-after by powerful nations but it was also attacked and trafficked by pirates and even defended by national heroes. It is certainly a region that has a lot to offer.

San Carlos: the door to the San Juan River

The principal city of the region and the departmental capital is San Carlos, situated next to Lake Managua at the point where the San Juan River begins. The city (dating back to 1527) is small and rustic but it does possess the necessities to attend visitors: hotels, hostels, good restaurants, small eateries and cyber-cafes. The residents of San Carlos are friendly people, and this city, as well as the adjacent municipalities, offers a superb place to eat freshly caught fish from the river or the lake. The place is a paradise for fishermen, and many people in this town are dedicated to fishing. Furthermore, sport fishing at the San Juan River and on its tributaries attracts sport fishermen from all over the world.

San Carlos is the principal point of entry and departure of the region. It has a small airstrip that connects the city with the international airport at Managua, and it also has a municipal wharf and several other docks that connect San Carlos with Ometepe, Granada, and the other destinations that are situated further downstream the San Juan River. There is also a bus connection with Managua and other towns and cities in the area.

This city, however, is not just a transit point but it also offers several interesting attractions. There is a small, tranquil pier on the shores of the lake, which turns into a very busy area during the national celebrations on September 14 and 15 when an international sport fishing competition is held here. More to the north there is a viewpoint that provides a view of the lake, the river, and even some islands of the Solentiname Archipelago. The sunsets are also spectacular to see from this point. Furthermore, in the center of this small city there is a cultural center called José Coronel Urtecho Cultural Center, where visitors can learn more about the nature and history of the region and where three viewpoints offer great views of San Carlos and its surroundings. The municipal market, where a wide variety of tropical fruits is sold, can also be visited.

Direct links: hotels in San Carlos | restaurants in San Carlos | activities in San Carlos

The Solentiname Archipelago: nature and art

East of San Carlos, located within Lake Nicaragua, the Solentiname Archipelago (named after the náhuatl word ‘Celentinametl meaning ‘place to rest’) is made up of 36 islands of different sizes. Nature is abundant in this area, and the fishermen and farmers that live on these islands have started to dedicate themselves to another famous activity since the 1960’s: the creating of primitive paintings and art, introduced by the Nicaraguan poet and priest Ernesto Cardenal, who arrived at the island during that time to spread his belief.

When it comes to size, the Mancarrón Island is the largest island, followed by the La Venada and San Fernando Islands. The other islands are rather small and most of these other islands are uninhabited. One of these is called La Pajarera Island (the Birdcage Island), named after the hundreds of local and migratory birds that can be seen here. Another island, Mancarroncito, offers a large natural reserve.

At Mancarrón Island there is a hotel and a small hostel. Here, a small artisan community can be visited to observe the creation or painting of the pieces (which can also be bought here, directly from the artisans). Close to this small settlement there is an area where some indigenous petroglyphs can be found. At the north-easternmost side of the island there is a wetland-area which can also be visited. The highest point of the island is called El Peñon. This large rock on top of a high, tree covered hill can be climbed to enjoy a superb panoramic view of the island and the surrounding area. This three hour hike is quite exhausting, though. Close to the principal wharf of Mancarrón there is a small, rustic church that is beautifully painted and decorated, set up by priest Cardenal. There is also a small museum where pre-Columbian pieces from the island are exhibited.

The San Fernando Island also offers a small museum as well as a cultural center where primitive paintings from local painters are exhibited and sold. These painters come from this same island and from the neighboring La Venada Island (most painters from Solentiname live on either of these two islands). Handicrafts from the Mancarrón Island are also sold here (although these pieces of art are similar, the islands do use a different style). At San Fernando there are two hotels and a rustic hostel.

The Solentiname Archipelago is located about 15 kilometers from the city of San Carlos. The area can be reached by taking a cheap, public boat from the wharf of San Carlos (boat ride takes more than two hours), or by taking a more expensive, private boat (taking about 45 minutes).

Direct links: hotels in Solentiname | restaurants in Solentiname | activities in Solentiname

The reserves of Los Guatuzos and Esperanza Verde

There are two natural reserves located not far from the beginning of the San Juan River. One of these reserves is Los Guatuzos, located on the southern shores of Lake Nicaragua, and the other is Esperanza Verde, located on the shores of the river.

The name of the Los Guatuzos Wildlife Reserve is derived from an indigenous community that inhabited the area. This reserve is located 45 kilometers from San Carlos, and it is set around the shores of the Papaturro River, which also begins at Lake Nicaragua. The area has an ecological center, a community-run lodge, and a variety of activities offered by this same community, funded by a national foundation. In addition to the spectacular wildlife biodiversity visitors can also find a butterfly garden, a turtle farm and a Cayman farm. There are hiking trails as well as watertrails, and there is also a trail over a hanging bridge.

East of Los Guatuzos lays the Esperanza Verde Reserve, located between the San Juan River and the Río Frío, only two kilometers from San Carlos (reachable in 15 minutes using the Río Frío). There are trails, lodging possibilities, and a restaurant. Hundreds of bird species can be seen here, as well as interesting wildlife like the nutria (also called ‘water dog’).

Both reserves can be reached by taking a public or private boat that leave from the city of San Carlos.

Sábalos and the historical El Castillo

After traveling downstream on the San Juan River, there are two main towns in the area, located on the shores of the river, situated about one hour apart from each other. These towns are Sábalos and El Castillo.

From San Carlos it takes two hours in public boat to arrive at the area called Boca de Sábalos. Here, the San Juan River is connected to an effluent called the Sábalos River. A small village that is also called Sábalos is located on both sides of this river. This is a rather rural town, but it has some interesting sites including private natural reserves, productive farms, and even unexplored hot water springs.

In Sábalos there are some simple hostels, but there are also three comfortable hotels: one of them located at the estuary of the Sábalos River, and the other two located a little further down the San Juan River.

The historical village of El Castillo is located further downstream. This place is named after the ancient Spanish fortress that was built here during colonial times to protect the Spanish territory further inland by blocking pirates and other invaders. The deteriorated fortress, carrying as its complete name ‘Inmaculada Concepción de María’, witnessed bloody battles that were once fought here. Currently, the interior of the fortress functions as a historical museum, and there is a small library with an interesting collecting of biological, historical, and other book located within the fortress walls. Furthermore, the fortress provides a superb view of the river, and the architecture is also an interesting of this ancient military building.

The small, picturesque town of El Castillo is set around the fortress. The village is very calm and relaxed, and instead of streets or roads it has only walkways. There are several hotels, hostels, restaurants, eateries, and even an internet café and a butterfly garden. Furthermore, horseback riding tours, canoe trips, and other activities can be undertaken from here.

Boats to El Castillo or to Sábalos can be taken from San Carlos. Several boats depart daily to El Castillo, passing by Sábalos along the road. It is also possible to get to Sábalos by bus, departing from the bus terminal in San Carlos.

Direct links: hotels in Sábalos and El Castillo | restaurants in Sábalos and El Castillo | activities in Sábalos and El Castillo

Indio Maíz Biological Reserve

The Indio Maíz Biological Reserve is one of the most well-preserved natural areas in the country. Tropical rainforest abounds, and so do the many different animal species that can be found in this important ecological refuge.

The reserve’s surface measures 3,180 km², and most of it is covered by dense rainforest. There are also many rivers that meander through the reserve, inhabited by tropical animals like turtles and crocodiles. The forest houses a stunning animal population, including spectacular birds and beautiful mammals. One of the most famous mammals living in the forest is the jaguar, although spotting one is not an easy task.

The Indio Maíz Biological Reserve starts about six kilometers east of the historical town of El Castillo. It is located right next to the San Juan River, which makes a boat trip down to the Caribbean Coast a very green journey. The reserve stretches all the way to the coast, and it includes a large territory north of the river, all the way up to the Maíz River (it is named after this river and another river located within the reserve, the Indio River).

Entrance to the reserve is strictly limited by the ministry of natural resources (MARENA), but there are two different places where it is possible to enter the forest. One of them is in the southwestern corner, six kilometers downstream the San Juan River from El Castillo. Here, at the shores of another river called Bartola the reserve can be explored either by foot, hiking one of the trails, or by boat, entering the Bartola River. The other option is to enter the reserve via the Indio River, located at the southeastern side of the area. From the small town of San Juan del Norte, this river can be accessed and a different part of the reserve can be explored. This region is more remote and it requires more effort to reach it, but it offers an impressive area of even more natural, unexplored rainforest. Read more about how to visit the Indio Maíz Biological Reserve in our Activity Guide.

The aforementioned Bartola River, located close to El Castillo, also offers another natural area that can be visited. Whereas the Indio Maíz Reserve sits eastward of the river, a private reserve called Refugio Bartola is situated to the western side of the Bartola River. The flora and fauna is similarly spectacular, and the area has been frequently used by scientists researching this tropical forest. A hotel called Refugio Bartola is located on the corner of the reserve.

San Juan del Norte and Greytown

Considering its current size, it is surprising how much historical value the area around San Juan del Norte holds. Not long after the Spanish conquerors first set foot on Nicaraguan soil a small town was established close to the estuary of the San Juan River. The Spanish called it San Juan del Norte after the Northern Sea, which is how they named the Caribbean Sea in front of the Nicaraguan Coast (obviously their maps had a slight error concerning the wind directions).

In the nineteenth century, the town of San Juan del Norte was attacked by the British who joined forced with the Miskito Indians living in the area. The British gained control and the city was renamed to Greytown. In the mid-19th century Greytown became a wealthy, lively port town as the San Juan River gained importance as a transit river during the California Gold Rush. During the years of prosperity Greytown was home to a British consulate and commercial buildings like a bank and a casino. Large, wooden houses in British style were lined up along a handful of streets, and it was during these years that the idea of creating a Nicaraguan canal became as tangible as it ever got. Rich, American businessmen like Cornelius Vanderbilt invested in creating a canal that would offer the fastest route from the Atlantic to the Pacific side. Using the natural flow of the San Juan River and Lake Nicaragua, construction work to create such a canal would have been easier than at other sites.

Although the San Juan River would be used as a natural waterway, the estuary of this river posed risks including shifting sandbanks and overflowing. It was therefore decided that a canal would be constructed north of the outlet of the river, starting in the bay of San Juan del Norte, connecting to the San Juan River past the estuary.

In the 19th century dredges were built to create the first part of this canal. Construction work did start but operations were ceased after dredging only about 500 meters. These dredges slowly sank into the bay and nowadays there is only one dredge still visible. A large-scale inter-oceanic canal was not finished until 1914, when the Panama Canal was completed. Nicaragua, however, also came close to providing the connection between the Pacific and the Atlantic Ocean, when it was seriously considered by the Walker Commission before the current Panama area was chosen after lobbyers influenced the U.S. government.

The strategic importance of Greytown diminished as time passed by, and the city slowly deteriorated. The final blow came when the city formed the setting for heavy fights between the Contras and the Sandinistas in the 1980’s. Greytown was completely destroyed, and there was nothing left but the graveyards and a few building foundations. When the inhabitants returned in the 90’s, they decided not to rebuild the city at its original location. They did not want to be reminded of the bloodshed that took place here during the war, and the new town was therefore established a couple kilometers north of the ruins of Greytown.

Starting with only a couple families, this village slowly grew to a town of 900 people, living in this remote corner of Nicaragua. Instead of using the old name, this place was now named after the original city: San Juan del Norte. The current population consists of an interesting mix of people including mestizos from the Pacific Coast, creoles from the Atlantic Coast, and even Rama Indians who are forced to leave their traditional village in the rainforest due to new laws.

Most people in San Juan del Norte live from fishing and the town is not yet very developed. There are only a few telephone connections in town, and there is only electricity during part of the day. There are no cars whatsoever, and within the village there are cement walkways that make it easy to stroll through this tranquil town. There are plans to construct an airport at San Juan del Norte, which would greatly improve accessibility. Nowadays there is only a tiny, private airstrip that is not used by commercial planes.

Despite its remoteness and low level of development, San Juan del Norte does offer a wide range of different activities that can be undertaken from here. Visiting the nearby historical sites is one of the most interesting activities. The single dredge can be seen in the bay, as well as the stretch of canal that could have been the beginning of the inter-oceanic route. These two reminders of the past can both be seen on the way to the ruins of Greytown, only a ten-minute boat-ride from San Juan del Norte. What is left of the once-flourishing city is nothing more than the four different graveyards with tombstones of British, Spanish, and American people.

A five-minute boat ride in the opposite direction leads to a different attraction: the Blue Lagoon. The warm water of the lagoon might not be very blue, but this small lagoon surrounded by palm trees and vegetation does provide a perfect place for swimming and relaxing.

Another more natural activity can be found even closer to the town. Right behind San Juan del Norte starts a beautiful natural reserve. Small trails lead through the dense forest, where beautiful birds, frogs, snakes, and even mammals like deer can be seen. This area can be reached by foot from the village.

More natural splendor is to be found further inland. San Juan del Norte provides access to the Indio River, which leads directly into the Indio Maíz Biological Reserve. More about visiting this beautiful area can be read in the section above or in our Activity Guide.

Several lagoons within the area furthermore provide shelter to a very special animal species: manatees. These unique, aquatic mammals live in quiet lagoons and rivers that are generally surrounded by nothing but forest. Manatees can be spotted by entering a lagoon or river in a boat and then waiting for them to come to the surface. There is never certainty but with some effort and luck these animals can be spotted during a daytrip to a lagoon or river where they reside.

Finally, the many rivers and creeks and the Caribbean Sea all offer sport fishing possibilities.

Direct links: hotels in San Juan del Norte | restaurants in San Juan del Norte | activities in San Juan del Norte

Getting there

You can get to the Río San Juan department by plane, boat, or car. To get to San Carlos over land, you should get to the Chontales department where you take a turn at the city of Acoyapa in the direction for San Carlos. Until Acoyapa the road is in good condition, but from Acoyapa to San Carlos the road is in very poor condition and part of it is unpaved. A high clearance vehicle and four-wheel drive are recommended, especially during the raining season. From Managua, it takes approximately 9 hours to get to San Carlos, but it highly depends on the condition of the last part of the road. You can also get there by bus from Managua. You can take an intercity bus from the Mayoreo Market with destination San Carlos. It takes about 10 hours in bus.

For plane travel, you can take a ‘La Costeña’ flight from Managua to San Carlos. This takes about 45 minutes. To get there in boat, you can take a ferry that runs from Granada to Ometepe, Morrito, and San Miguelito before it reaches San Carlos. This will take about 12 hours. San Carlos is the entrance to the San Juan River; from here you can take boats to explore the river.

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